Cadiz’s coastline is rich with moorish history and a haven for those who like a relaxing day by the sea

This riot of partying lasts for two weeks around Shrove Tuesday in February or early March. The prime draw are the chirigotas, comical performers. Typically accompanied by guitars, kazoos and a bass drum, the dozen or so performers sing satirical skits on political figures.

Children have a ball, watching puppet theatre shows before heading for the Plaza San Juan de Dios where a daily fireworks display takes place.

A trip to Cadiz isn’t just for the young Carnival crowd. Lovers of food, sea and architecture flock here

Today, the wild, windswept Atlantic coastline remains unscarred by mass tourist development, the city itself is a lovingly conserved melange of architectural styles. Its high medieval walls enclose a wealth of ancient buildings, including the visual feast of the cathedral.

There are constant reminders of the link between the city and the colonial treasures overseas, with doors carved from the trees of South American forests and street names echoing Latin American heroes. Although the city was un­favoured for much of the 20th century, it has enjoyed a renaissance in recent years, with robust efforts to restore the city's his­toric buildings and instill a new sense of civil pride.

A trip to Cadiz isn’t just for the young Carnival crowd. Lovers of food, sea and architecture flock here

Cruising around the Old Town is a pleasure in itself, as you lose yourself in narrow winding streets before coming out into ancient squares, complete with cafes and restaurants.

There are beaches just minutes from the city centre. Playa de la Caleta is close by the Old City, sit­ting between the castles of San Sebastian and Santa Catalina. Around 400 me­ters long, it ser­ved as the back­drop to a scene in the Bond film Die Another Day.

La Playa de la Victoria is close to the newer part of Cadiz and draws many lo­cals and tourists to the gentle swell and fine sand, whereas the smaller Playa de Santa Maria del Mar lies between these two main beaches and has great views of the Old Town.

For those in search of a truly stunning beach, the Mecca is Conil de la Frontera, a few miles along the coast from Cadiz and boasting untouched whitewashed villages (pueblos blancos) sitting above the fantastic sandy shoreline. Playa de los Bateles and Playa de la Fontanilla are both gorgeous spots, lined with fish restaurants and charming hotels.

Overall, the beaches in the region are far less crowded and developed than in the neighbouring Costa del Sol, partly because the Atlantic weather is breezier and the sea rougher. Wind and kite-surfing goes on all along the coast, and having more room to yourself is a bonus.

There are five major national parks in the region: Doñana, considered to be the most important nature reserve in Spain; La Bahía de Cádiz, with its hectares of dunes, canyons and cliffs. Beaches; La Breña and Marismas de Barbate with its 4,737 hectares for cycling, hiking and bird watching; La Sierra de Grazalema for hiking, horse riding, cycling and pot holing; Los Alcornocales with more than 170,000 hectares for more hiking, abseiling, canoeing and cycling. The mountains here have caves with paintings dating back to the neolithic period.

For the rest of the year, you can enjoy the evening life of Cadiz’s Old Town, particularly in the streets around the Plaza de San Francisco, which are well-stocked with tapas bars serving guests from around 10pm till 4am. After that, the most popular club in town is El Hoyo on Calle Manuel Rances, just north of the Plaza and rocking until dawn.

By the sea, there is the option of Barabass on Calle Muños Arenillas, on Playa Victoria.

But theme parties are also popular, influenced by the inhabitants’ love of the theatrical, with subjects including Love in Ipanema or White Parties, where everyone must come dressed in white. Deep Ocean, along the same beachfront, is famous for its crowd of sublimely beautiful people, while the Woodstock Bar on the beachfront is a cool hangout.

The best restaurants in Cadiz specialise in seafood, with the most important regional dishes including Tortillas de Camarones (small thin crispy omelettes with tiny prawns), calamares en su tinta (squid in its own ink), fideos con gambas y almejas (noodles with prawns and clams), and various other kinds of shellfish including sea urchin, crab and lobster.

For those looking for something other than seafood, head inland from Cadiz, where the local vinegar and sherry produced in Jerez plays a key role in dishes, such as la perdiz estofada (partridge casserole), revuelto de esparragos trigueros (scrambled eggs with fresh asparagus), aceitunas aliñadas (marinated olives), and ajo caliente (warm garlic).

Wherever you look in Cadiz and whatever you do, eat or visit, you're likely to find it a distinct and memorable experience, quite apart from the rest of Spain and with a welcoming culture all of its own.

By David Nicholson